Blue train (2) and Cape Town

We awoke at 6:30 to a perfect morning so John whizzed down to the observation car to take a photo
From our suite




And from the observation car, he was on his own




Breakfast was another multi course event and we heard a chorus of 'happy birthday' and corks popping further down the car.
The landscape was now very different. We had passed for mile and miles of flat veldt to mountains and wine areas such as Hexriver valley. The couple opposite us, in this photo, were from Wales.




The vines were trained in the old Italian canopy style, little seen in Europe now because it is not compatible with mechanical picking.




A major goal for photographers on the train was to get a photo of the train and its two locomotives passing through the countryside. This requires a sharp bend with visibility through the bend not something that happens often. The bend in a pass close to Tulbagh Railway Station was announced 40 mins before and as we arrived there. John had found a rare clear single glazed window and go one good shot. He was then very disappointed as it seemed to be, inexplicably, out of focus. On TomTom he spotted another bend coming up and headed for the observation car and noticed that the kitchen there had a small window that opened. Poking the camera out the window he got a couple of good shots. The photos were still no good. Eventually he discovered that some how the camera had got set to take poor definition pictures - why would anyone want to do that? So, nice photos but they don't blow up.




We saw ostriches by the side of the track a number of times




Reaching civilisation




As we approached Cape Town, we saw our first views of Table Mountain




John had to have a photo of our engines when we reached our destination.




The Blue Train staff had ordered a taxi for us to get to our apartment where we will spend 7 nights. We look out over the V and A waterfront and docks and a large junior school with a red roof.




For the rest of the day, we washed clothes, shopped, slept and then ate in an Italian restaurant, Il Leone, very close to our apartment.
Pat and John on tour

The Blue Train (1)

A highlight of this holiday is a trip from Pretoria to Cape Town on the luxurious Blue Train. The train takes 27 hours and travels at a top speed of 90km.

We arrived at the station lounge, 5 minutes walk from our hotel, just before the appointed time of 7.30. Having checked in, we were given the number of our suite and a cup of tea. Our luggage was delivered to our suite for us.










We were welcomed by the train manager and then escorted to the train by our coach attendant (our butler Albert).












Our suite is one of 4 in a carriage. There are 29 passenger suites.







A bath on a train is a first for us.
















The train has an observation car at the back so that you can see where we have been and a couple of lounges where snacks and drinks are served. The maximum number of passengers on this train is 58 and it is not quite full. There are a number of Brits and South Africans with a few others.








There are two sittings for meals and we selected the first. Brunch was at 10.30 but turned out to be more of an early lunch.



Wine is plentiful, if you ask for a glass, a new bottle is opened for you. Business was good even at 10.30 in the morning, but that's a bit early for us, we waited until the main course!


A little rest was clearly in order after getting up at 6.15 and eating a large brunch, so we sat back and watched the countryside go by.


A shanty town by the side of the railway, not far from Jo'burg.



There was a lot of empty space along the way. We have seen a few animals around, a Thompson's gazelle, warthog, water buck, ostriches, storks,



The ground here was very red, almost like Northern Territory in Australia and there were lots of termite mounds.




This is a slag heap from a mine .... a gold mine. Years ago the method of extraction of gold was not as efficient as it is today, so there is still gold in the slag and we understand that it will be reprocessed as part of the relandscaping of areas like the centre of Jo'burg.



At about 3pm we drew into Klerksdorp station and sat there. Our second locomotive had put its brakes on and wouldn't let go. Fortunately, the train has a mechanical and electrical technician and even a wheel tapper on board! We sat in the station for 2 hours while the problem was solved. The result of the delay was that we were unable to go to the Kimberly great hole diamond mine because it would have been dark by the time we reached it.


Dinner is smart affair- men are expected to wear a jacket and ladies should be elegant! We all did our best.













When we returned to our suite, it had become a bedroom.

Pat and John on tour

Pretoria

After our disturbed night, we were pleasantly surprised with the excellent breakfast the next morning. Packed lunches were available, so we decided to have two for our day out.
The over ambitious plan was to see the Voortrekker monument, botanical gardens and the Union buildings. We set out for the monument by foot towards Freedom Park from where we would continue to the monument. We passed what appeared to be a market which was all but closed being Sunday but at one stall people were preparing food which looked delicious.




This house was a little different but next to a major road




We then passed through a residential area of small houses some with nicely kept gardens




When we got to Freedom Park, we realised that this would be interesting to see and not just a walking route to the monument. A tour was about to start, so we joined that. We were six, a Welsh couple and a South African couple.
Freedom Park is a monument to ALL who fought and died for democracy throughout South Africa's history. It is a presidential initiative which came out of the work of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission.
The view from the entrance over Pretoria, the closest red roofed building being the railway station




The Sanctuary area which looks out to the amphitheatre and the eternal flame








The amphitheatre




The gallery of leaders




The "Reeds"




The wall of names, here the names are listed by event, WW1, Sharpeville etc but the names are random thereby mixing racial origins.








The boulders of the sacred area, one from each provence of South Africa




The lekgotla, seating area for elders, by tradition always next to the sacred area so that the spirits of the past can guide the leaders of the present.




Moshate




The area for contemplation where we ate our lunch








The grasses on the verges made interesting shapes but who or what had knotted the grass heads together that we saw in great numbers as well?




This was our first chance to get close to a thorn bush. We must have been too high to see these when we went walking in the Drakensberg mountains. The large thorns make a pretty picture.




We didn't reach the Voortrekker monument, but here it is from the Freedom Park.




We had been walking in 30+ degrees for 4 hours and it was time for a rest so we set off back to the hotel rather than heading for the Voortrekker monument which we photographed from afar. Fortunately, on our way back, John spotted a track that the locals were using that he thought might be a short cut and indeed this came to a long footbridge over the railway tracks which gave us a much quicker way back to the hotel, we were very happy. The shortcut did not feature on any maps.
Later in the afternoon we took a taxi to see the Union Buildings a very imposing building with terraced gardens overlooking Pretoria.












Pretoria from the Union Building.




In the evening, we ate a great meal in the hotel restaurant buffet before we packed ready for an early start the next day.
Pat and John on tour

Taxis and Buses

John's cousin Georgina talked about the taxis and about how powerful they were as a lobby group - blocking or going slow on the motorways. Gradually we came to realise that these were not taxis as we knew them but privately owned minibuses. When some urban areas introduced "proper" bus services the "taxis" felt threatened and took industrial action which resulted in their service been properly recognised and included with in transportation planning.

This shows two taxis picking up passengers in the centre of Pretoria.




It seems a good model to us rather than the gargantuan buses in the UK which are so heavy that they destroy the roads. Clearly a taxi takes people from one locality to do their shopping and then takes them home again. We have seen the lines of minibuses waiting by the shops.

Each taxi seems to specialise in a particular area or route. There are the occasional turf wars and bizarre compromise agreements that are not always in the best interest of passengers but the system seems to be well used and must be efficient and dynamic.

The taxis come in many states of condition some old and battered but many are quite new as there are incentives to trade in older minibuses for larger modern cleaner minibuses. Many carry this South African sign which shows they are a taxi. The taxi owner's details are also written on the taxi.




On our tour of Soweto our guide Agnes explained a bit about the way you use the taxis. You stand by the side of the road. If a taxi comes along it will hoot if it has some room. You then respond with a hand signal that shows where you want to go. If the taxi is going that way it will stop. The route to your destination might not be completely direct as the taxi will drop people of at their houses. We passed this set of sculptures which show some of the hand signals used in Jo'burg.




In towns there are areas that act as taxi stations. This station in Pretoria was full and many taxis had to park along the adjoining street. Inside the Station there was shade and stalls selling food and drinks.




I hope that we have understood this all correctly. If not please let us know.



Pat and John on tour